Untouched nature, delicious food and a love of wild camping were the main factors for using a roof tent for the first time in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This summer we had commitments in the Sarajevo area and decided to extend our stay and from there set off to explore Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Day 1: Sarajevo – Baščaršija and Trebević
We started the first day by walking around Baščaršija and absorbing all the details in the streets. The streets are full of charming cafes, restaurants, mosques and souvenir shops that invited us explore the local culture and cuisine. Be sure to make time for an authentic bosnian experience – a true bosnian coffee made in a traditional metal pot called džezva. We bought pite for lunch – a true bosnian delicacy, handmade pastry with a variety of fillings. After a quick meal we walked to the cable car that leads to Trebević. Walking along the old bobsleigh track in the middle of the forest delighted both the children and us.
The trail was built for the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo and is unfortunately in disrepair. You can walk along it, and it is decorated with various graffiti. We took the cable car back to the car and continued on to Fojnica, where we wanted to spend the night. We settled in the parking lot for the Kozice waterfalls, and apart from one camper van, there was no one there. There is room for 5-7 cars. The parking lot is not organized, it is a mixture of gravel and dirt, as is part of the road to it.
Day 2: Fojnica and Mostar
The small town of Fojnica hides the still untouched pearl of the Kozica waterfalls. The Kozica River, with its forest flow, forms five waterfalls, two small and three large up to 20m in height. The path to them is maintained, but sturdy shoes are required because it can be slippery, and there are no railings. From the parking lot where we slept to the beginning of the path, it is about a 30 minute walk on a gravel road.
After the hike, we went for lunch at the “Stari grad” restaurant in the center of Fojnica. Be sure to try the another bosnian delicacy called „uštipci“ with kajmak or cheese along with the pite and bureks. We ate them every day, as an appetizer or even a main course!
It was time for us to continue our journey and off we went to the city of Mostar. Arriving late afternoon gave us plenty of time for a walk through the old part of Mostar and dinner. Be sure to cross the old bridge and walk through the city on both sides of the Neretva. Although we had planned to stay on Hum, the hill overlooking Mostar, we left too late and changed our minds due to the strong wind at the top. We continued driving towards Međugorje, or rather the surrounding villages, in search of a location where we could stay without attracting attention. We learned an important lesson - we must at least roughly research on maps where we would sleep in advance and arrive at least at dusk, and not just before midnight!
Day 3: Medugorje, Kravica and Ljubuški
A quick breakfast by the car and we return to Medjugorje. We decided to climb the Apparition Hill, spent about 45 minutes there and headed on. Next stop Kravice waterfalls – a family favorite!
Opinions are divided on whether it's worth coming in the summer or not, because it can be crowded. We came for lunch and then went swimming when the crowds thinned out a bit around 5pm. While we were walking, we saw that there is also a Kravica campsite right next to the river, so if you're not into wild camping, it seems like a good alternative.
Taught by yesterday's experience, I planned tonight's camping location next to the old town of Ljubuški, I was hoping for a nice view. And we got it! We parked next to the road, set up our tent, and woke up with this view:
What we didn't know was that the fortress is a place that locals hang out at night going out in the summer, so cars were passing by until 4am. Some honked their horns or shouted good night, but no one complained or called the police.
Day 4: Lake Buško
Hot summer days and the lack of showers led us to look for locations where we could swim, every day or every other day. A picnic and swimming in Lake Buško were the plan for today. Several campers and roof tents were set up next to Marinovac beach. Our original plan was to visit Livno and climb Cincar to set up camp, but the road to Cincar is demanding, especially at dusk, so we decided to spend the night here by the lake. And we didn't regret it at all!
Day 5: Cincar and Kupres
Cincar Mountain is one of the most famous in BiH, mostly for the wild horses that can be seen there. The road up to the top is demanding, good tires and driving skills are a must. It would be good to have a 4x4 drive, or at least a slightly elevated car. The views you will see up there are beautiful! Since the kids were asleep, we just drove on the roads instead of walking. Be careful if you go off the road because there may be mines in some parts.
Before returning to Croatia, we decided to have uštipci one last time! We chose Kupres so that we could take another ride through the beautiful area and maybe see a wild horse along the way. This time we were not lucky, we only saw signs. That doesn't mean we were sad, surrounded by beautiful nature and full of uštipci, it's impossible!
This short trip has ignited a desire to explore Bosnia and Herzegovina in more detail! I hope our experiences will encourage you to visit these places too. By all means, if you haven't already, read the wildcamping in BiH blog with all the tips you need to know in advance. Enjoy and let us know your impressions!
